Lombardian Chestnut Stew

With Giovanna Tognetti

Giovanna Tognetti is from the ancient Lombardian city of Brescia at the foot of the Italian Alps. Here she learned from her Aunt Bruna. This unique beef stew, thickened with melding chestnuts, is just as delicious made with the jarred variety. The oldest chestnut tree in the world is believed to be anywhere from 2,000 to 4,000 years old.  In 1780 its girth was measured as 190 feet.

For hundreds of years chestnuts in Europe (the European variety - castanea sativa) weren’t just stanzas in a Christmas carol; They were flour for pasta and bread, cakes and dinner.  In high regions where grains didn’t grow and potatoes had yet to arrive, chestnuts were kitchen staples.  The bronze nut (the only nut, by the way, with vitamin C) arrived in Europe from Asia Minor

To start, make a cut on the chestnuts and put them in the oven (400 degrees F.).  Let them roast till the cut in the skin is well open.  Peel them (better do it while they are still warm so that it is easier to peel the second skin) You can do this days in advance and keep the peeled chestnuts in the freezer.

The stew is ready when the meat is very tender (you shouldn't need a knife to cut it) and the chestnuts are soft inside.

Ingredients

Aunt Bruna's Toccio Con le Castagne (Chestnut Stew)
1 and 1/2 pounds of meat (boneless blade )
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 stick of organic butter
1/2 medium onion
2 stalks of celery
1 handful of parsley leaves
1 tablespoon of tomato paste
1 and 1/2 bouillon cubes (beef)
red wine
salt
20 large Italian chestnuts - or a jar of roasted chestnuts

Instructions

1. Make a cut on the chestnuts and put them in the oven ( 300 / 400 F).  Let them roast till the cut in the skin is well open.
2. Peel them (better do it while they are still warm so that it is easier to peel the second skin) You can do this days in advance and keep the peeled chestnuts in the freezer.
3. Put the olive oil and the butter in a pan. Put the meat cut in cubes in the pan and, stirring often, brown the meat.  Cook it in this way until all the liquids released by the meat are reduced.
4. Add the bouillon and the tomato paste - stir.
5. Add the vegetables that you have finely minced - stir.
6. Add a full glass of wine - stir. Let cook slowly; if the meat is too dry (liquids are all evaporated) add some more wine or water and wine (not too much at a time). Stir frequently.
7. When the meat is cooked but not completely, add the chestnuts.  Stir and finish cooking.

The stew is ready when the meat is very tender (you shouldn't need a knife to cut it) and the chestnuts are soft inside.

Recipe courtesy of Giovanna Tognetti, 2011.

Giovanna Tognetti

Giovanna Tognetti is from the ancient Lombardian city of Brescia at the foot of the Italian Alps, but now lives in Swampscott, where she and her husband moved years ago as part of an American adventure.  Giovanna now leads Americans on tours of her beloved Lombardy, and leads Italians on tours here in New England.  I met Giovanna at a cafe in Boston’s North End last fall, and, of course we quickly were talking about food.  As chestnut season had just begun, she mentioned to me that she made stew from chestnuts, which I had never heard of.  Giovanna promised me many Italians had never heard of it either.  It was her aunt Bruna’s recipe, and Giovanna had never seen it anywhere else.

Although chestnut season is waning, you can still find some in baskets in grocery store produce sections, but Giovanna promises that this unique beef stew, thickened with melding chestnuts, is just as delicious made with the jarred variety.  I’ve made this stew many times now, and promise it’s flavors are easily worth a thousand chestnuts.

Giovanna, owner of Smart Travel USA, works with major American and Italian tour operators for inbound Italian groups - conventions etc. She also works with Italian Government institutions to promote Italian Tourism, Food & Wines in the USA For 7 years she managed Casa Monte Cassino, a non for profit hospitality home for needy families around Boston for medical reasons.